17 June 2008
The British Steak Problem
The British know how to raise beef, hang it, and butcher it. Fantastic stuff. So why does it all go wrong in so many kitchens? British restaurants are, as a rule, incapable of cooking steaks. Almost any restaurant in France can do a reasonable job of pan-frying a steak with inferior quality meat. Why restaurants in Britain can't is a mystery. Places such as the Hawksmoor that have tried grilling haven't gotten it right, either. It's now big news that there is one restaurant in London, the newest shouty jumped-up Gordon offering, that has an american-style proper commerical broiler. We'll see. It's a shame, because the best steaks I've ever had have been British beef. Anyone who's only eaten British beef in British restaurants thinks I'm nuts when I say that. Cooks, get with it, you're letting down the side! Farmers and butchers, have a quiet word with 'em and sort it, please.
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The best steak I have ever had, was in the Islington Pyke residence in 2001, bought at the local butcher, raised on a local farm, marinaded in some delicious old whiskey for many days before deliciously prepared by Ron.
The worst steak I have ever had was a pounded flat piece of shoe leather at a Lyon France restaurant (Lyon, le centre d'excellence de gastronomie en France) that was over cooked, dried out, tasteless. this, in contrast, to amazing rabbit (lapin au burre), magnificent duck, and mouth watering langoustines... all in France.
Maybe only the Buckingham guards (Beefeaters) get the good British beef?
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